This classic vintage marmalade was made by Fortnum’s in the 1920s for actor-manager Sir Nigel Playfair, who asked for a bitter, thick-cut preserve for his toast. We met his request with this – a strong, substantial marmalade with a deep flavour and lots of chewy peel. The colour of dark marmalade is often achieved by cooking the sugar for longer; but we make it with raw cane and raw muscovado sugar instead to give colour without overcooking. The result is a rich, citrussy, not-too-sweet flavour. The extra-large jar is simply to maximise the pleasure and is a cheering sight on one’s breakfast table.